Gewurztraminer and Curry :
Myth, Match or Magic?
No wine is more fun to drink than a great gewurtz. Aromatically, it is both sweet and complex, and with a phenomenal richness and density of flavors in each glass. The problem is finding food that can benefit, and not be buried, by a wine this opulent. The classic is cumin-laced münster cheese, and building on this cumin theme, Asiatic and Indian cuisine has often been recommended as a worthwhile pairing. I love cumin and cook with it often, but usually drink a slightly aged, dry Jurançon, or white Chateauneuf, wines that tend towards mild oxidized flavors.
So, in dutiful service to blogdom and with a Thai-style chicken curry on the table, out pops the cork of one of my favorite gewürztraminers, and so begins the study.
Gewurztraminer 2001, Clos des Capucins, Cuvée Théo, Weinbach ($45…saq)
A solid yet elegant Gewurz, the Théo is the result of both organic and bio-dynamic farming. It is classic gewurz: a beautiful copper hue, notes of lychees, apricot and pineapple confit, with just a hint of residual sugar and a finale of zest of burnt oranges. But it’s the dense, heady aromas that is the beauty of the gewurz, almost like walking into a flower shop. My curry, laced with cumin, coriander and ginger worked well with the aromas but had a tough time defending against the weight of the flavors. I found myself spending a lot of time sniffing the wine and then my plate, and then back to the wine.
I would call it a match, not quite made in heaven, but definitely worthy of more study.
Your dutiful blog servant